Explanation of options
This is a list of the current models that I have available. Often there are more but I just haven't updated the list yet, when in doubt just send me an email to check about a particular gun. If I don't have one in hand, then sometimes I can source one, it never hurts to ask. Also if you want to insure a specific gun will work just put the model in the options/comments and I'll take it from there.
Position of Holster:
This dictates where the holster will be placed. It refers to the side of the body you would like it to ride on. For instance if your right handed ordering a Texas holster to wear around 4 o'clock you would select right. When in doubt though just explain in the order comments where you would like the holster to go.
This is the actual color of the stitching. One thing to note, stitching does take some dye, so if you order a russet holster with white thread, generally the thread will be off white in the finished product. Black will stay black, but if you have a question here as always feel free to ask.
Stitching Type - Hand Stitching or Machine Stitching?
Well I always offered hand stitching as an option, however as time has passed I've found machine stitching has been better than I had expected for durability. I've got quite a few holsters out there in the worst conditions and they have held up very well to the point that the stitching has never been a problem on them. As I've grown as a holster maker and built many rigs over the last several years I've developed more trouble with my hands, which at times cause me quite a bit of pain just from the day to day routine of holster making. So because of this I'm stopping hand stitching as an option, I just can't justify stitching a rig and it hurts my hands more than boning 10 holsters. I'll never dispute the fact that hand stitching with a traditional saddle stitch is really the strongest stitch that I'm aware of but considering my experiences with machine stitching the last several years I'm extremely satisfied with the strength and durability of my machine stitch.
Normal gunbelts are 1.5in. well commonly most belts are that width, however you will ocasionally see 1.75in. belts as well. The reason it's important to tailor the clips/holster to the belt is to limit the amount of slop of the holster on the belt, which will make it ride better and more comfortably.
Modern gunbelts are thicker than they have ever been with some exceeding 1/3in. thick, as a result I've found it's best to try and setup the holster to work on your thickness of belt. When if doubt just email and I can cover that as well.
Attachment to belt:
This is only an option on holster with removable clips, but this allows you to select which type of clips you'd like. I'll fill in more information on this along with pictures soon.
Full Grain Leather Lining:
Full grain leather lining does two main things. First it helps lessen the wear on the finish of the gun by providing a smoother surface against the gun. Also it adds a second layer of full grain leather which tends to make the rig more durable over time. It also makes the draw of the gun feel slicker, or smoother. Also I occasionally get the question of why my leather lining is priced where it is, I pay the same per sq. ft. for all thickness of hide basically. As a result it doubles the cost of leather for the rig, I also laminate the two layers together and then stitch around any exposed edges to insure that they will stay together even if the adhesive were to fail.
Do you mind if I use your first name and last initial for promo pictures:
Normally when you see pictures on my site you will see a little line in the corner of the picture that says "Custom made for John D. of Michigan", this question is just asking if I can use your name in the picture, if not I will list name withheld in the photos.
Where did you hear about us?
Sometimes the place you heard about us isn't on the list, feel free to put it in the options/comments. I love to try and track who's talking about my holsters as well and see what is driving orders.